82A1 MUZZLE BRAKE REMOVAL

Semi-Auto Rifle

Moderators: Barrett Forum, Samurai, Barrett

BEAMEUP
Newbie
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun 31 May, 2009 9:08 pm

82A1 MUZZLE BRAKE REMOVAL

Postby BEAMEUP » Sat 04 Sep, 2010 12:50 pm

I'm in the process of prepping my 82a1 for a new paint scheme and am looking for info on how to remove the brake. I have removed the two screws and can't find any info on which way the break turns to remove it. If you are looking down range, does it go counter clockwise or clockwise? Will it take heat to break it free from the barrel?
tommygun
Member
Posts: 139
Joined: Mon 20 Apr, 2009 1:04 pm
NRA Member: yes
Military: yes
Law Enforcement: yes
Carry Permit: yes
Favorite Firearm: MRAD
Favorite Ammo: Hornady
Location: Rochester NY

Re: 82A1 MUZZLE BRAKE REMOVAL

Postby tommygun » Sat 04 Sep, 2010 1:55 pm

I would give barrett a call , and ask for one of there techs / gun smiths to help you along with it , i do rememeber reading about removing the muzzle brake , in one of the older barrett annual magazines, seemed like like the typical left loosen it right to tighten it , also i think they whcked it with a rubber mallet to help loosen it , also the the two screws do have a torque spec that they have to be tightned to , but again me personally i would call them and would probably give you all that info
User avatar
Shadow
Continuing Member
Posts: 820
Joined: Mon 20 Apr, 2009 7:10 pm
NRA Member: yes
Military: yes
Law Enforcement: yes
Carry Permit: yes
Favorite Firearm: Any .50BMG Barrett
Favorite Ammo: API, of course
Location: Not sure, checkin GPS

Re: 82A1 MUZZLE BRAKE REMOVAL

Postby Shadow » Sat 04 Sep, 2010 4:22 pm

tommygun wrote:I would give barrett a call , and ask for one of there techs / gun smiths to help you along with it .....


Good advice, BUT, BEFORE you call them, sit down and read the following a couple of times. Make sure you have the right tools before going any farther; PLUS You'll NEED to order a "Shim Kit" before proceeding with the removal, etc. Don't reuse the shims that are on the barrel.....

After reading the below, THEN if you have any specific questions, I'd give them a call. Just saying....

Also, if you don't feel you have the proper skills; OR TOOLS and Parts - I wouldn't remove the MB. I personally feel you shouldn't remove it unless the MB is damaged (for replacement); And also, you don't need to remove it (my opinion) to paint the rifle. Just be sure the removal/install is done properly. Others may disagree and YMMV, but if you get a FAIL, it'll be really expensive to fix... :poke:

REMOVE MUZZLE BRAKE
Use a T-30 Torx wrench to loosen the Muzzle Brake Screws. The Muzzle Brake Washers will be difficult to remove due to the Blue 242 Loctite that will have seeped from the Muzzle Brake Screws during installation. Use a 1/16” punch to work the Muzzle Brake Washers out. If these are not removed prior to removing the Muzzle Brake, they will be damaged and have to be replaced.

Use a dead blow hammer to loosen the Muzzle Brake by unscrewing it counterclockwise. Roughly a 30 degree angle is required to unscrew the Muzzle Brake with the dead blow hammer. Blue 242 Loctite may have seeped around the threads between the Muzzle Brake and the Barrel. If this is the case, keep turning the Upper Receiver as you tap off the Muzzle Brake until the Muzzle Brake comes free and will unscrew on its own. Remove the Muzzle Brake Shims once the Muzzle Brake is completely removed.

Pull the Barrel from the front to the rear of the Upper Receiver. Take care not to damage the crown of the muzzle. The crown is the angled portion at the end of the muzzle that allows the gases pushing the projectile down and out of the bore to flow evenly around the projectile as it exits the bore. If the gases were to escape more on one side than the other, this will push the projectile off its desired path of flight. Visually inspect the two Impact Bumpers on and around the Barrel. The Battery Bumper is the larger rubber piece to the front of the Barrel Bushing. The Battery Bumper limits how far the Barrel retracts during operation and stops any metal on metal contact. The Barrel Bumper is the smaller rubber piece that is around the chamber area at the Barrel Extension. The Barrel Bumper again stops the metal on metal contact from the Barrel Extension and Barrel Bushing. Inspect both of these pieces and look for any cracks or gouging from use.

REINSTALL MUZZLE BRAKE
Screw the Muzzle Brake completely onto the Barrel until it is fully seated. Then turn the Muzzle Brake back until the alignment marks on the Barrel match up with the alignment marks on the Muzzle Brake. This will help you estimate the amount and thickness of the Muzzle Brake Shims to use. Again turn the Muzzle Brake back to put in the desired amount of Muzzle Brake Shims into the gap that is created. Tighten the Muzzle Brake back down “finger tight” as to not damage the Muzzle Brake Shims that are sticking out on the side. The alignment marks that are on both the Barrel and Muzzle Brake should be inline with each other.

Remove the Muzzle Brake completely and set the Muzzle Brake Shims on to the end of the Barrel, setting them from the thicker shim to the thinner shim from the base of the Barrel to the muzzle. Screw on the Muzzle Brake until it is fully seated and as far as it will turn. There should be a 1/8” gap between the alignment mark in the Muzzle Brake and the Barrel. This gap is caused by the thickness of the shims once they are fully seated around the end of the Barrel. When the Muzzle Brake is tapped into place, it will crimp the Muzzle Brake Shims and help to create a tighter fit for the Muzzle Brake on to the Barrel. It is important to note that it is not these Muzzle Brake Shims that hold the Muzzle Brake onto the end of the Barrel. It is the Muzzle Brake Screws that actually clamp the threads of the Muzzle Brake on to the threads of the Barrel.

Tap the Muzzle Brake on to the Barrel with a dead blow hammer until the alignment marks in the Muzzle Brake and Barrel are in line with each other. Once this is complete, insert the Muzzle Brake Washers and apply Blue 242 Loctite on to the threads of the Muzzle Brake Screws. There is only one way to insert the Muzzle Brake Screws in to the Muzzle Brake and that is from the unthreaded to threaded portion of the Muzzle Brake. Take care to notice which side is actually unthreaded. Some times the dried loctite will leave the imprint of the threads of the Muzzle Brake Screws in the Muzzle Brake. Tighten the Muzzle Brake Screws to 90 – 95 inch pounds. If a torque wrench is not available, tighten the Muzzle Brake Screws down “hand tight” and go one more hour (or five minutes) on the clock. This will give you approximately the 90-95 inch pounds of torque required.
:drill:
ImageImageImageImage
BEAMEUP
Newbie
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun 31 May, 2009 9:08 pm

Re: 82A1 MUZZLE BRAKE REMOVAL

Postby BEAMEUP » Mon 06 Sep, 2010 4:12 pm

Thanks for the info, I did get the brake off with very little effort. I locked it in a vise & wrapped the brake with a cloth towel and gave it steady pressure and it cam loose. It didn't seem like there was any lock tight on the thread at all, there was no crumbs on the threads or in the break. Also there where 3 shims on it, 20k,8k, & 7k.
User avatar
freddy979
Poster
Posts: 46
Joined: Tue 24 Nov, 2009 8:41 am

Re: 82A1 MUZZLE BRAKE REMOVAL

Postby freddy979 » Wed 13 Jul, 2011 8:58 pm

I used the instructions contained in this thread and the muzzle brake removal went smoothly, but now the muzzle brake washers seem to be loose after reinstall. They aren't damaged. I don't remember them being loose before. Is this normal or do I have a problem? I don't want to overtorque the muzzle brake screws.

Thanks.
Barrett Model 99 32" FDE .50 BMG

Return to “Model 82A1/M107”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests